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Store Your Jet-Ski At Westwood Storage |
Westwood Storage Can Store Mobile Home Trailers |
The first thing to look at is fuel stabilizer which helps to stop condensation forming in the fuel tank and fuel lines and therefore this needs to be added to a full tank of gas first. When adding the fuel stabilizer it is important that you follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. Now start the motor on flusher for approximately 1 minute in order to push the treated fuel through the fuel system.
Now we come to fogging oil this is applied to the carburetors. You will find that most boat motors have fittings for applying fogging oil. However, if yours does not have such a fitting then you will need to find openings where this oil can be applied (you may even have to remove the carburetor cover to do this). However, what you should remember is that fogging oil will make the motor of the boat smoke more than is normal when you run it the first few times.
Next you will need to unhook the flusher and drain the gear case and then refill with fresh lubricant. If you happen to notice water in the flushed lubricant this may be a sign that the shaft seal needs to be replaced. It is important to remember that a bad seal if not replaced could cost you $1,000 or more in repairs.
The spark plugs should be removed and spray fogging oil into the cylinders, also clean the housing and coat electrical connections with an anti-corrosion spray. Also replace the removed spark plugs with new ones.
Next you should inspect the steering all of the cables both on and in the steering column and clean out any grime and then let the shaft air out. Ensure that all cables have been sprayed using anti-corrosion spray.
Now you will need to disconnect the battery and clean all the terminals and spray these with anti-corrosion liquid and then store it properly. Also remember to put the batter on charge for a couple of days each month whilst the boat is in storage.
The motor of your boat should be tilted downward in the running position and cover with a motor cover. It is important that you do not use plastic to cover the motor as it will trap moisture against the motor instead use either a cloth or canvas covering (it allows the motor to breathe).
If your boat is being kept on a trailer inspect it fully and grease all the bearings on it. Also check the tires and spray any unprotected metal or iron parts with an anti-corrosion spray.
Now you have correctly stored your boat by following the tips above you will be able to relax and look forward to next season.
Make sure your gas tank is full. This will reduce the amount of water that can be absorbed by the gasoline and it also slows the rate at which it turns to varnish. Use and additive like "Sta-Bil", "Dry Gas" or similar. Make sure it's well mixed and run the car for a while to make sure it's in the entire fuel system.
Freezing temperatures naturally dictate that anti-freeze be used. But even if it's not freezing, put it in. Many of the newer 'coolants' have excellent corrosion inhibitors that will help protect and lubricate your cooling system. A 50/50 anti-freeze/water mix is fine. Again make sure to run the car so it's mixed throughout the entire system.
Change the engine oil. Dirty oil is contaminated with acids and water that can cause premature bearing failure and rust inside the engine. If the car is likely to be left for a very long period of time unattended, remove the spark plugs and liberally squirt some form of 'upper-cylinder lubricant' into the cylinders before replacing the plugs. This will help stop the piston rings from rusting to the cylinder walls.
Make sure the Brake and Clutch master cylinders are full of brake fluid. Brake fluid can absorb water very quickly. By reducing the exposed surface area of the fluid, the water absorption can be reduced. If you can, bleed the brake and clutch systems. It is recommended that you do this on an annual basis anyway, to purge the system of old and possibly contaminated brake fluid.
To inhibit rust in the engine area, use a lubricant spray such as WD40 to coat all exposed metal surfaces. The volatile carrier in the WD40 will soon evaporate leaving a protective film on the hose clamps, coils, carb bodies etc. 'Wax-oyl' is also good, but you'll want to hose it off at a 'car wash' in the Spring.
Wash the entire car and apply a good wax. Don't forget to clean the inside. Do this early in the day to give it plenty of time to thoroughly dry before putting it in storage.
If you have a convertible top, leave it up and the windows and vents closed. A convertible top can develop nasty creases when folded for long periods, especially in cold climates. Treat Vinyl tops with Silicone or similar. Keeping the windows and vents closed keeps small creatures from entering. But buy some desiccant sacs from a storage supply house 'Dry Pac' for
example and place them inside the car on the floors. This will keep moisture from damaging the interior if it is damp or humid where you are.
Ensure that the trunk is clean and dry, The trunk seal is not always positive and some moisture can collect and condense in the inner fenders and floor. Air it out well for a day or so, then place a desiccant sac in here too before closing it up.
Finally, take the car on a good 30 minute run. This will evaporate all the moisture in the exhaust and in the engine. Then park the car with the hand brake off and either 'chock' the wheels or leave it in gear if necessary. Over inflating the tires can help guard against flat spots. Disconnect the battery.
The best thing to do for a stored car is to visit it once a month and take it for a short drive. This keeps everything in good shape, preventing things from getting corroded and seals drying out. At the very least have some one start it up periodically. If you are going to cover it use a proper Cloth car cover, not a Plastic one. If you find the concrete floor in your storage unit gets damp or 'sweats' use cat litter, or lay plastic beneath the car to prevent the condensation from reaching your floor pans.
Jet Skis require special attention to cleaning, especially before they are put into storage. A professional detailing job is more than cosmetic, it's like a force field around your Jet Ski protecting it from the elements. And of course it doesn't hurt that it makes your Jet Ski look its best! If you're going to put your Jet Ski in storage, be sure to follow these cleaning tips:
After you take your Jet Ski out of the water, be sure to drain all water from the engine. The best time to do this is when it's tilted on its trailer in the loading dock. While you're on the dock, start the engine and turn the handle back and forth to drain any water still lingering in the engine. Do not do this unless your in a well ventilated area free of fire hazards. Never run the engine run for more then 30 seconds at a time outside of the water because it will eventually overheat. Repeat as necessary until all moisture has been burned off.
After you've dried out the engine you should follow up by treating it with fogging oil. Now is the best time to do it, while you're still on the dock in an open area. Fogging oil is an aerosol spray that protects your engine from rust. To fog the engine, remove the air filter and run the engine at slightly above idle. Spray the fogging oil into the carburetors until the engine stalls. Remove the spark plugs, make sure the wires are grounded, then spray the fogging oil into each hole for a few seconds. Cover the holes with a clean cloth, then push the Jet Ski's start button. The engine will not start, but the oil will be allowed to spread internally. Clean the Jet Ski of any oil that may have spilled and put the spark plugs back in place.
Give your Jet Ski a thorough cleaning. Be sure to remove all grime and algae that may have built up while in use.
Dry the hull, exterior and interior thoroughly with a clean, soft cloth. Make sure your Jet Ski is completely dry, inside and out before you put it in storage.
Wax and buff the exterior as if you were getting it ready for a show, and then wax it again. This will give your Jet Ski an extra layer of protection from the elements.
Lubricate your metal components and treat them with the proper protectant to prevent rust.
Place desiccant on and around your Jet Ski to absorb trapped moisture and prevent mildew.
Plug up any openings in your Jet Ski with a soft absorbent cloth. This will prevent moisture and pests from sneaking into your vehicle. Be sure to unplug the openings before you put your Jet Ski back in use.
If it has been said once it has been said million times, RV’s are a major investment like your house or automobile. To protect your investment and get many years of reliable service and use from your RV there are certain measures you need to take. One important measure is how you store your RV. The best scenario for storing your RV, when not in use, would be some type of overhead shelter. The problem is in most cases this is not feasible or even possible. It can be costly to construct some type of shelter for your RV and many times local building codes don’t allow this type of construction on your property.
Over time the roof and exterior of the RV begin to show signs of wear, caused by the constant exposure to the elements. Ozone in the air and ultraviolet, (UV) rays from the sun start to take their toll, which at first is evident by signs of fading paint. The ozone in the air also causes products like rubber and vinyl to dry out, crack, and start to deteriorate. The UV rays from the sun make this aging process happen quicker.
We are big advocates for keeping the tires on your RV covered when you’re not using the RV. It is not uncommon to see RV tires with low mileage and plenty of tread that are ruined by the damaging effects of ozone and UV rays. Ozone in the air and UV rays from the sun shorten the life of your RV tires. Ozone in the air causes tires to dry rot and deteriorate and UV rays from the sun make it happen quicker, just like the other products on your RV. This is especially true of the tires sidewall. You should inspect your tires periodically for any checking or cracks in the sidewalls. If you notice any damage, have the tires inspected by a professional before using the RV. Tire failure on an RV can be extremely dangerous and can cause costly damage to the RV.
There are basically two ways to protect your RV tires from these elements. Keep the tires covered with tire covers that block out the sunlight when not in use; or for long-term storage remove the tires and store them in a cool dry place away from sunlight, grease, oil, and fuel. We also recommend that you place something like RV Leveling Blocks between the ground and the tires. Be sure that whatever you use is larger than the footprint of the tire. No portion of the tire should hang over the edge of the tire block. This can cause internal damage to the tire. The bottom line is, inexpensive tire covers can protect your expensive RV tires from being ruined by the sun.
The same thing that happens to the RV tires can happen to the entire RV. The roof, paint, rubber and vinyl can all be damaged by the sun, not to mention what the wind and rain can do to the exterior of the RV. Your RV is too big of an investment to let Mother Nature wreak havoc on it when it is in short or long term storage. The most logical and cost effective way to protect your investment is to use an RV cover when you’re not using your RV. A few features to look for in an RV cover include:
1) The material the cover is made of is breathable
2) It protects the RV against the suns damaging UV rays
3) It is water resistant.
4) The manufacturer’s warranty
Last Updated (January 31, 2010)